A few weekends back we were treated to a lovely few days of swell here on the North coast...
We had been keeping an eye on the forecast all week; seeing as we couldn't get a surf in before or after work, we were ridiculously keen to spend all weekend in the water! When the swell hit, it was a perfect, super clean 3-4ft and light offshore! We woke early on the Saturday morning with boards and wetsuits already loaded up in the car from the night before(we were keen to wake up, get the coffee down and head off asap!) and made speedy tracks down to Godrevy!
When we were studying in Falmouth, Godrevy used to be one of our favourite spots; heading either there or Porthtowan at every chance we had. Now, living in Newquay, we have so many different spots for different swell directions on our doorstep we never really make it down to Godrevy at all. But this time, we made sure we were going to head down there as the swell direction dn size were looking perfect!
We made our way down the path to check out what was in store, and we were incredibly happy to be greeted by these delicious views...
... We immediately started dribbling at the sight of these perfect, glassy peelers rolling in!
We were literally jumping for joy!
We changed into our suits as quickly as possible after that and spent the next few hours absolutely loving the clean, super glassy 3ft waves coming our way. I completely forgot about the seal colony at Godrevy, and we soon found ourselves surfing with giant, inquisitive seal noggins popping up everywhere.
After a fun few hours session, the cold began to seep into my bones, turning my arms into useless frozen noodles. We paddled back in with huge grins on our faces and slightly numb bodies. We changed as quickly as we could, dowsing ourselves in warm water from the thermos flask(a very nifty trick for a quick burst of warmth after being in the freezing water), layering up with thermals and heading to Godrevy cafe for a hot chocolate laced with all the trimmings... I think we earned it!
After filling our bellies with deliciously sweet hot chocolate, we upped and left to make tracks back home. On the way back we stopped at a "secret spot" to watch the sizey swell roll in at this point which seems to attract bigger surf. It's a pretty hairy spot that's only really visited by locals; this is mainly due to the scree-filled path down to the beach, making it harder for your average surfer to visit/mainly just more of an effort.
But your hard work is paid off as the end result is an empty line up with peeling left handers and just a few others out; or maybe not even that. On this day in particular the swell was booming in resulting in this spot being empty on this day. It made for some perfect viewing, as we watched the huge sets roll in from the top of the cliff.
The perfect way to spend a weekend... Surf, ocean, friends, hot chocolate and more surf!
Until next time...