Two Days Of Gold

Somehow I managed to time my days off perfectly to coincide with the arrival of the new swell!

As promised by the wave gods, the clean, offshore waves predicted were finally, and very kindly delivered to our doorstep. Those days spent surfing the mush in optimistic preparation of surfing a proper slice of swell well and truly paid off. What can I say...  heading in whatever the weather, whatever the wave was damn good advice!

Clare and I were ready for the new swell that was set to hit; our arm muscles were prepped, primed and ready for action and we were suitably stoked; the perfect combination!

We set our alarms early for the morning ahead, ready to hit the beach as the sun rose into a stunning cloudless azure sky. We were out of the house quicker than ever, armed with freshly brewed coffees in our own takeaway jam jars ready to fuel the long, fun surf ahead!
Photo Courtesy of Clare James Photography

As soon as we laid eyes on the waves peeling in front of us, our grins were unstoppable, we managed to pull on the wetties, wax up the boards and run down to the shore in record timing!

Despite the waves only being about 2ft to begin with, it didn't stop us catching some fun little rides. We kept our eyes peeled on what was happening further up the beach as the swell was supposedly picking up throughout the day. After an hour on the main break, we spotted the peaks further up starting to work better and better so we made tracks over. 

We were greeted by super fun right handers with just a couple other girls and guys out there, no hassle just welcome smiles and wide grins. We joined them in the lineup and only left when our arms had turned to noodles. 

We headed back up the beach to the car where we soaked up some sunshine and admired the waves we'd just spent the last 3 hours surfing.

A quick pit stop at home for lunch and I set off again for another surf over at Mawgies this time with Alice. We managed to squeeze in an hour or so until the tide became too high and the beach got a little bit too busy.

The rest of my day off was spent refuelling in anticipation for a beautiful sunset surf. The swell had officially reached its peak with 5ft sets rolling in along the north coast. I got out the water early as my arms were pretty dead and ultimately useless for catching anything. Instead I took to shooting the setting sun as it cast its pink/purple/blue hues over the glassy Watergate surf. Possibly the best sunset I've seen here at Watergate.Take a peek for yourself...

Not too shabby eh?

I hadn't seen a sunset like this for a while, it made for a stunning way to end a ridiculously fun day filled with surf, sunshine, delicious food and friends.

And then some from the beach...

Stunning pink reflections...

Reflections from the van window
The next morning we woke to cloudy conditions, and reportedly smaller waves. The waves had died down from the previous night before but there was clearly still a fun 3ft wave to be had! Clare and I grabbed our things and headed down early. We managed to score it for a few hours until the wind suddenly turned onshore; making the glassy clean waves turn into onshore mush.

As we walked back up the beach we couldn't believe how quickly the conditions had changed but we were still pretty stoked that we had managed to score it first thing despite everyone telling us there was no point heading out.

Matty on his way out of the onshore mush
Matty and Meli

We certainly made the most of the swell while it lasted, getting at least two surfs in every day. It felt pretty damn good to get back on the board and actually have some fun surfs as I hadn't had a really fun surf since Barbados back at the beginning of April.

The swell soon disappeared with just 1-2ft waves rolling in the next morning. We still took out a couple of longboards and managed to catch a few fun ones but right now we're sitting tight, currently waiting for the next elusive swell to hit. 

Until then...


My Favourite Surf Edits #1 Emerald Odyssey

I came across this video a few months ago and instantly fell in love with it. I'm not a massive surfer groupie, I don't follow the tour like I should. But when I see a video that's so fresh, inspiring and different, I really want to share that with everyone else.

I have decided to compile a list of my favourite videos I've found so far this year. Whilst working at Wavelength I was scouring the internet for new videos throughout the day, and I seemingly got ridiculously excited when I found a video about a female surfer. This is mainly because the internet is constantly inundated with incredible videos of guys surfing, and it's fair enough because the majority of those videos are insane. However, as soon as there's a great video of an incredible girl surfing, I'd rather post that out there, just to show how incredible women's surfing is, and how these talented ladies should be up with the best of them.

The first on the list is Dillon Chang's beautifully crafted 'Emerald Odyssey', starring Courtney Conlogue. Courtney sways away from the usual Dream Tour route, evading the usual sunny tropical landscapes and bikini clad bodies and opting, instead for the rawness of cold water surfing. Here she surfs the stunning emerald isle where she scores some of Ireland's finest.

I love everything about this edit, the breathtaking scenery, the music, and that first of Conlogue's waves at 1:15. Watch. Enjoy. And feel all the more content for watching this on a sunny Autumn morning. I hope this inspires you to get out there and surf your butt off! It did for me!

Emerald Odyssey from Dillon Chang on Vimeo.